This Is My DIY 2-Stroke Leak Down Tester
It may be ugly, but my leak down tester only costs $25, and it gets the job done.
I found all the parts I needed at my local hardware store except for the one way valve that I had to special order, and the exhaust plug I had to get at a parts store.
The three components your leak down tester needs is a Schrader valve, pressure gauge, and one-way valve.
I used small plumbing fittings, but anything from PVC to cast iron will work, so you can build yours with whatever you can find.
Here is the complete list of the parts I used, in order, from valve to carburetor coupler.
Parts List: (All parts NPT (National Pipe Thread))
- ⅛” air Valve
- ¼” to ⅛” Reducer
- ¼” Male to Male Connector
- ¼” One-way valve – Special Order
- ¼” Male to Male Connector
- ¼” Tee
- ¼” Pressure Gauge
- ¼” Male to Male Connector
- ¼ to ⅜” Reducer
- ⅜” Male to Male connector
- ⅜” to ½” Reducer
- ½” Male to Male Connector
- ½” Female to Male Elbow
- 1-1/4” x ½” PVC Bushing
- Electrical Tape
You Can Get All Your Parts Through Our Partner Links!
At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter how long your tester is, or what it’s made of if it works.
When assembling your tester you need to use Teflon tape to seal the connections. The trick with Teflon tape is finding the sweet spot between too little and too much tape.
Too little tape and you won’t get a good seal, too much tape and you risk peeling it off during install, resulting in a bad seal.
On the carburetor side, use electrical tape to build up a lip at the end of the PVC bushing. This tape lip will give the boot clamp something to hold on to during testing.
You will also need a basic bicycle pump, the smaller, the better because you only need 7 PSI to test your gaskets and seals.
If you have any questions about building your leak down tester, please let me know.
