1997-1999 Honda CR250 – Rear Shock Rebuild Part 1: Disassembly & Inspection

Apr 14, 2016

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Step-by-Step Showa Rear Shock Rebuild

This is PART 1 of the Step-by-Step rear shock rebuild for a Showa KZ3P SA-1 found on your 1997 – 1999 Honda CR250. The steps in this rebuild will also work for a 2000 -2001 Honda CR250 but remember that for the 2000 – 2001 model years, Honda switched to a larger diameter shock, so parts are not interchangeable.

You can find Part 2: Shaft Assembly and Part 3: Body Assembly.

Shock Rebuild Parts List

Shock Oil → https://amzn.to/42fLESS
1997-1999 Individual Parts → https://amzn.to/4h4lDKq
2000-2001 Shock Rebuild Kit → https://amzn.to/40a8MzA

I have found several rebuild kits for the ’00 – ’01 rear shock, but I have not been able to find a complete rebuild for the ’97-’99 shock. However, you can still get all the OEM parts individually here → https://amzn.to/4h4lDKq. I prefer buying the individual parts anyway so that I can save money. It all works out! (For me).

I don’t recommend buying any parts until you know exactly what you need.

That being said, the seals, O-rings, and valve bushing were in surprisingly good shape, considering the condition of the shock oil. I took a chance and reused everything (except the oil), so I may get 10 minutes of ride time or 100 hours from this rebuild.

*This was the best option for me then, so if you reuse your parts, know there is a risk of premature failure.

Specialty Tool List

Racetech Rear Shock Seal Head Setting Tool → https://amzn.to/4ag6jby
Tusk Seal Bullet → https://amzn.to/42j95Lj
Tusk Reservoir Cap Removal Tool → https://amzn.to/4j8Z1KN

*You may be able to get this rebuild done without these tools, but you risk damaging many parts. I usually try to find ways to do things without special tools, but damaging anything on this shock would cost more than the tools.

Basic Tools

Mallet
Small flat-head screwdriver
Medium Philips head screwdriver
Valve stem removal tool → https://amzn.to/40wmEpd
Hammer
Punch
File
Grinder (if the shaft nut has mushroomed)
Bench vise or assistant
Towels
Stiff bristle brush
Parts cleaner
Safety Glasses → https://bulltru.com
Low-pressure air pump

Torque Specifications

Shaft Nut – 35-60 ft-lbs

After you complete the rebuild on your shock, you must take it to a shop to get the reservoir filled with 150 – 200 PSI of NITROGEN. Why nitrogen and not regular compressor air? The simple answer is that air expands when heated, but nitrogen does not.

Pre-Service Notes

Remember to inspect everything as you clean it, and replace any damaged or worn parts.
I recommend opening the Service & Torque Specs in a new tab for easy reference.
If you need parts and tools, make sure to buy them here! → https://amzn.to/4h4lDKq
Pictures with captions are after the steps below.
If you need any help, don’t hesitate to ask!

97-01 Honda CR250 Rear Shock Disassembly & Inspection

Remove the spring:
- Back out the preload adjustment nut to release the spring pressure
- The spring plate is held on by a circlip attached to the collar.
- To separate the collar and spring plate, place a screwdriver between the collar and the spring,
- Then, hit the plate with a hammer to expose the circlip.
- Remove the circlip, the backing plate, and the spring.
Step 1: Clean the reservoir cap and release the air from the bladder.
Step 2: Remove the valve stem from the reservoir cap.
Step 3: Remove the shock body cap using a punch and hammer. Go back and Forth between the punch holes so the cap does not bind.
- Clean and inspect the seal head. Before removing the shaft, we must remove the reservoir to release pressure in the shock body.
Step 4: Install the reservoir cap puller and beat the cap into the reservoir to expose the circlip.
- Remove the circlip, install the cap puller again, and pull the reservoir cap and bladder.
Step 5: Shaft Removal.
- To remove the shock shaft, push the seal head down to expose the circlip.
- Remove the circlip and carefully work the shaft out of the body. Set the shock body aside and let it drain in a warm place for about 10 minutes.
- Clean and inspect the rear shock body, shaft, and valve stack.
Step 6: Remove the shaft nut.
- *The shaft nut will be mushroomed from the factory. If it is, you must grind down the nut until you see a distinct separation between the nut and the shaft. But, if your shock was previously rebuilt, like this one, you shouldn’t have to. Clean and inspect the threads.
Step 7: Transfer the valve stack to a screwdriver to
keep everything organized.
- Remove the seal head, shock body cover, bumper,
  and collar. Clean and inspect.
Step 8: Check the shaft threads; you may need to
re-pitch the threads using a small file.
Step 9: Check the seal head body and seals, these
The rear shock seals are still good so that I will reuse them.