1997-2001 Honda CR250 Clutch Maintenance Part 2: Inspection

Dec 23, 2016

This Honda CR250 Clutch Inspection is Part 2 of the step-by-step clutch maintenance for your 1997-2001 Honda CR250 Dirt Bike.

You can find Part 1: Removal here, and Part 3: Installation here.

You Can Get Parts And Tools Through Our Partner Links HERE!

You will need to reference the Service & Torque Specs table for the inspection process.

1997-2001 Honda CR250 Clutch Inspection

Step 24: Inspect the pressure plate for warping, cracks, chipping, or any signs of excessive wear.
Step 25: Measure the width of the friction plates with calipers. If they are out of spec (Service Limit 2.85mm), they need to be replaced.
- If the plate is still within spec, check the friction plate tabs for breaks or chips.
- NOTE: You will need calipers. Fortunately, they don’t cost too much, and you can get some through our retail partners HERE.
Step 26: Place the clutch plate on a flat surface, use a piece of glass if you have one.
Fold a piece of paper and try to slide it under the plate.
- If the paper slides under on opposite sides of the disc, it is out of spec.
Step 27: Measure the free length of the clutch springs (Service Limit 44.7mm).
- Hold the spring as lightly as possible while still maintaining a grip with your calipers to get the most accurate reading.
Step 28: Check the clutch inner splines and teeth. The teeth will be worn where the clutch plates sit.
- This is normal wear and will not affect the clutch operation until it is excessively worn.
Step 29: Inspect the clutch outer.
- Check the bore for cracks or burs
- Check the teeth for breaks or uneven wear
- Check the basket slots for smoothness. If you find burns or pits CAREFULLY use a file to remove them
Step 30: Inspect the clutch outer guide and needle bearing.
- Check the bore for cracks or obvious wear.
- Measure the outside diameter of the guide. (Service Limit 27.97mm)
- Inspect the needle bearing for flat spots and sticking rollers.
- Assemble the clutch outer guide, needle bearing and clutch outer on your finger and spin it to check for smooth operation.

Step 24: Inspect the pressure plate for warping, cracks, chipping, or any signs of excessive wear.

Step 25: Measure the width of the friction plates with calipers. If they are out of spec (Service Limit 2.85mm), they need to be replaced.

If the plate is still within spec, check the friction plate tabs for breaks or chips.

Step 26: Place the clutch plate on a flat surface, use a piece of glass if you have one.

Step 27: Measure the free length of the clutch springs (Service Limit 44.7mm). Hold the spring as lightly as possible while still maintaining a grip with your calipers to get the most accurate reading.

Step 28: Check the clutch inner splines and teeth. The teeth will be worn where the clutch plates sit. This is normal wear and will not affect the clutch operation until it is excessively worn.

Check the teeth for breaks or uneven wear

Check the basket slots for smoothness. If you find burns or pits CAREFULLY use a file to remove them

Check the bore for cracks or obvious wear.

Step 31: Inspect the clutch lifter and lifter rod.
- Spin both ends of the lifter rod in the lifter to check for smooth operation.
- Look inside the lifter to inspect for flat bearings.
- Spin the top of the lifter to check the bearings for flat spots.
Step 32: Inspect the lifter lever and rod.
- Check the lifter lever for cracks or warping.
- Check the clutch cable connection hinge for smooth operation.
- Operate the lifter against both ends of the lift rod.
Bonus: You pulled the flywheel so you might as well check it for cracks or signs of wear. Test the magnetism of flywheel. Only the inside will be magnetized. *If the flywheel has lost its magnetism, it will need to be replaced. (This is a good opportunity to upgrade to a weighted flywheel!)